San Ysidro Ranch*****, Montecito (near Santa Barbara),
California, USA

As I wrinte in February of 2006, the cottages down hill from reception and the restaurant are jacked up high in the air and bullgozers are grinding and puffing. However, the cottages uphill from the reception are open and a light Continental breakfast is being served guests. The restaurant is completely closed. But the changes will only make this nirvana all the more desirable. None of this negates our story, just puts the experience on hold for a while. Until sometime late in 2006,

© 2001 photos Peter D'Aprix

This lovely, lush garden retreat baths the body in comfort and the soul in tranquility. Most of the buildings, cottages and rooms have been offering a getaway from whatever stresses people have had since 1893 when it opened as a stylish retreat.

From the beginning, the ranch (up until a few years ago the stables were right near the dining room) has been a destination that has respected the privacy of celebrities, people of power, those in the public eye as well as those seeking a romantic getaway where you can either sleep all day in the charm and comfort of the cottages, under an umbrella poolside or work away the cobwebs with sports, exploration, hiking into the back country that starts just behind the tennis courts, play Bocci Ball, Badminton, Croquet, Horseshoes, pool or burn away calories raising a spoon in the excellent restaurant "The Stone House Restaurant" or the bistro "The Plow and the Angel".

Here John and Jacqueline Kennedy spent their honeymoon, Vivien Leigh and Laurence Olivier were married and Jean Harlow was a regular visitor. Today, the Ranch in their long tradition of offering privacy, does not publicize the well known faces that enjoy their nirvana. But well known or not, this dog friendly establishment is a destination for those who love peace, lush gardens, one of the world's best climates and an ambiance of upscale country executed with taste and restraint. Recent upgrades of the rooms and bathrooms have respected the classic California ranch style that typified the Ranch and at the same time has blended in modern comforts and facilities with just a soupçon of France in the draperies at the head of the bed. So successful in this have they been that they are a gold with the prestigeous Relais et Châteaux chain of hotels.

For families, there is a kids' play ground. In the corner of the main lounge is a charming writing desk with soft light from the sea. Chef West's formal vegetable and herb garden.

With their spa treatment program, they could probably list themselves as a spa, but choose to keep a lower profile on that part of their pampering. But you can order everything from Special European Facials, Pure Collagen Velvet Mask Treatments, Herb and Body Glow, a variety of massages and much, much more all in the privacy of your cottage.

The Ranch sits on 500 acres at the gateway of the Santa Ynez mountains and would overlook the Pacific Ocean and Channel Islands if the towering trees and hedges did not cut off the view. We remember fondly lazy summer days spent wallowing in the pool set high on the hillside, gazing out over the sea view which changed according to the seasons and the time of day. But today, a hedge and high fence take the place of the view. But the pool area is still a refreshing way to cool off of a hot afternoon. The tennis courts are just up hill from the pool. On the walk back from the courts, you can see the splendid panorama of the Pacific especially lovely at sunset.

Pets are made very welcome. Doogie, our own small dog who goes everywhere with us and after whom we have dedicated this food and travel magazine, gives the Ranch top marks for making him feel welcome. The large, round, faux sheep skin covered bed occupied a whole corner of the cottage. He was supplied with his own bottle of special formula mineral water "Pawier" and a white bowl from which to sample it. A tennis ball that had plenty of bounce kept him busy and the doggie safe back fenced deck provided him with fresh air, his own TV and us a great deal of relief. For foreigners, just remember that unlike France, dogs are not allowed in any restaurants in California.

There are twenty private cottages with wood burning fireplaces, skylights over the jacuzzi bathtubs, private decks and porches, many with their own private outside hot tubs. All the accommodations feature Frette linen and goose down comforters summer or winter. (You can always turn up the air conditioning if you get too warm at night.) Altogether, there are thirty eight comfortably appointed rooms and suites. All the small details are well covered.

One of the cottages set in the central gardens. Old world charm of the shady terrace of the old Adobe building. One of the many cottages on the ranch.

San Ysidro Ranch has a tradition of hospitality dating back to the 1700's when it served as a way station for Franciscan monks who were busy building missions from San Diego to San Francisco. In fact the name "San Ysidro" means Saint Isadore in Spanish and honors the the patron saint of Madrid who. according to legend, was such a kind and caring shepherd that the Lord sent a guardian angel to watch over this flock while he tended to the sick and needy. It is his example of selfless service that the management of the Ranch claim as their guiding principle employed every day at the Ranch.

In 1825, an adobe ranch house was constructed and remains today one of the most unique private dining rooms on the West Coast. The "Old Adobe," as it is known today, is a local historical landmark. Before is was opened as a stylish retreat in 1893, the Ranch was a working citrus producer. The beautiful sandstone building which houses the world class "Stone House Restaurant" and the bistro "The Plow and Angel" rests on the site of the original citrus packing plant.

Breakfast is served either in your cottage or at the Stonehouse Restaurant. Sadly, we must report that except for the ripe and delicious fresh fruit, the breakfasts as we experienced them were rather dismal. Gluey, glutanous pancakes, drippy hot oats, pasty bagels and some of the worst decaf coffee I have tasted though the decaf expresso was good. Teas were not brewed with boiling water. The bakery items of pastry chef Sarah Lovald, however, were excellent. The Ranch does so much right with minute attention to detail, it is sad that breakfast is so lacking. We well remember their cheese blinzes, banana walnut pancakes and other mouth watering delectibles in the '80's. We would drive over an hour just for their breakfasts. We do hope that Chef West might resurrect the memorable early morning feasts of yesteryear.

Rooms:
	Click photo below to see larger version. A typical bedroom of one of the cottages. One of the charming rooms all done is soft and warm colors. Down filled puffs cover the beds winter and summer.	With a cool breeze wafting the curtains, the upscale American feel of the interior is enhanced with the country ladder backed chairs. The cottage name with the guests' family name and that of their dog. The welcome warmth and friendly feel of real wood fires on a cool and foggy morning in August being enjoyed by Doogie, our Lassa Apsa.

Prices as of 2001 start at $395 USD per night for a room and the cottages start at $595 USD for a cottage with the top rate of $3,950 for the Eucalyptus Cottage. There is a mandtory cleaning for pets at $85 USD. Rates are subject to a 10% State & Local tax assessment.