Chianti Ristorante (Espresso & Wine Bar) established in 2003 in the mouth of the Carmel Valley situated in the charming shopping village of "The Crossroads" is a welcome addition to the food world of Carmel. Owner Domenico Vastarella has brought the tastes and ambience of his childhood Capris fishing village where he dove off cliffs for coins tourists tossed from cruise ships.
A great looking guy, now in his late 50's, with a full head of salt and pepper hair with a street wise twinkle in his eyes that also radiate good will and a sharp, incisive sense of humor and intelligence, Domenico and his son, Patrick, extend a warm welcome to all diners. With years of experience in the best kitchens of the Carmel region as well as his own home town in Capris, Domenico brings us Southern Italian home cooking at modest prices eaten in this authentic environment.
In October of 2006, we again sampled their food. Pappa was not there, but his son was. And the food had slipped a bit. The paring of tastes not quite as smooth or authentic. Still tasty but for the money there are other places to go who are more successful. But if you find yourself iat the Cross Roads shopping development, it probably still offers the best food for the money.
To keep prices reasonable, some compromises are necessary such as serving saffron rice instead of the risotto that the menu describes, but the majority of the meals are authentic, delicious and rich in tastes. We so enjoyed our lunch on the terrace with our small dog Doogie happily ensconced under our table as he does in Europe, that we came back for dinner.
Lunch started with an excellent Caesar salad with a hint of anchovy, aged Parmesan, and well cut hearts of romaine. (Don't you hate the new trend in restaurants with the "do it your self" Caesar salad - uncut leaves, untossed with croutons on the side!). It was served with oven warm crusty bread with sun dried tomato-olive oil purée, laced with garlic and a hint of anchovy; such an improvement over the ubiquitous saucer of olive oil. Even the house red wine was perfectly matched to the rich and hearty dishes. The chicken cacciatore was simple country and tasty with perfectly sauteed slices of zucchini and green beans in olive oil. The dessert a crisp and tangy "Lemoncello Sorbet" so called because of the splash of grappa included in the recipe. Perfect Italian espresso to finish.
So dinner was a must. The lighting is yellowish and dim giving a romantic mood emphasized by the flickering of the flames in the two fireplaces. We enjoyed a starter of the traditional tomatoes and mozzarella with basil and olive oil, and a succulent Cioppino, the southern fish and seafood stew, a big dish with mussels, clams, various fish species all aswim in a hearty and slightly spicy tomato broth. A real meal in itself.
Other dishes include a marvelous Carpaccio Di Cervo (a thinly sliced, rare, white-truffle perfumed venison served with arugula and pecorino), a classic Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Saltimbocca alla Romana and excellent pizza's. The dessert menu spanned the gamut from Tiramisu, tartufo di Piazza Navona (a famous dessert served in the cafés of Rome; a chocolate gelato Tartufo rolled in cocoa powder), Spumone alla Napletana, Gelato di Limoncella (as for lunch) as well as Creme Caramel.
Domenica talked to us about his youth in Capris just after the war. He started in the restaurant business as a coffee delivery boy; that is he had to run through the streets dodging cars, mopeds and pedestrians with a tray of cups of espresso and get them to their destination still hot or he and his boss would not be paid. Today, life is easier if no less complicated, but his early experience taught him the discipline necessary to running a restaurant that caters to the needs of its clients.
Domenico spent 16 years at the famed Rafaello's peppered with stints at such peninsula restaurants as The Lodge at Pebble Beach, Casanova and Gallatain's in Carmel. He was also the proprietor of La Dolce Vita, Capriccio and Sole Mio. Now he has founded Chianti which is our good fortune.