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The Essence of the Riviera - "Villa Marie****"


On the fringe of St. Tropez overlooking the Mediterranean.

Peter and Linda D'Aprix © 2005-6


If you seek peace and quiet to let down and relax yet want to be close to the holiday fun and glamour of St. Tropez on the Riviera coast of France, you could not do better than staying at the charming Villa Marie Hotel in Ramatuelle (which the smart-money set has always preferred to its clamorous neighbor, St. Tropez) just beyond the edge of town. It drips with the moods and colors of the Riviera, the turquoise sea in the distance and the turquoise pool at your feet, the breeze wafts the distinctive aroma of the umbrella pines that is so distinctive of the Côte d'Azur.

Built on a gentle hillside, the ground steps down from the hotel with all it rooms at the top of the property to the restaurant housed in a separate building which itself steps down to a flag stoned terrace which houses the indoor/outdoor bar and lounge as well as an outdoor terrace for passing the time, having a drink, light lunch or snacks. On this level, under the main restaurant is also found a gift shop and beauty/spa center with 6 private treatment rooms. It is only a few more steps down to the pool.

View of the sea

Views of the swimming pool, the vineyards and the Mediterranean in the far distance at the famous Baie de Pampelonne.

End of the breakfast terrace

The Mediterranean charm just oozes from Villa Marie. This iron legged table with a polished stone top and its neighbor with the wrought iron legs typifies the traditional feel of the Italian influence that abounds.

lilly pool
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Between the main building and the formal dining room are two lily ponds separated by an "obelisk" of twisted snake like carvings down which water courses.

wrought iron four poster bed

In our bedroom, this is the wrought iron four poster bed with its privacy curtains adding charm and function.

A window corner of the main lounge by the window.

detail of salon

Click on the "zoom+" to see larger version.

© 2005-6 photos Peter D'Aprix


The style of the hotel owes much to the Italians and to Nice with its ochre, yellow, red and soft pastel color palette with some of the rooms in a very cool and tranquille traditional tones of grey. The floors are either flag stone or terra cotta tile. The public rooms are stylish rather than homey. The emphasis here is life out of doors whether that is the covered patio in the back with tables, chairs and sofas that leads to an over grown private garden, or the sun drenched terraces, gardens and pool. The bar is built with glass walls and roof, so it is flooded with light. The glass walls open all around letting in cooling breezes filled with the scent of the sea mingled with that of the pines, sage, wild thyme, rosemary and lavender - lots of lavender. In fact, the driveway turning circle welcomes you with a profusion of lavender as does the golden gravel pathway that is lined with it as you enter the hotel.

Unlike most of their other hotels in this small, family created and run hotel chain based in the French Alps at Megève, this hotel was built as a hotel. When Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet decided to create one of their hotels in St. Tropez, they came across this property which was run down and a little sad. What they saw was the incredible view over the Mediterranean sea. They tore it back to its walls and resculpted the buildings and grounds to do a total make-over, They terraced the hillside making areas for different types of activities. They were a bit stuck with the rooms since they did not want to completely tear down the hotel and start from scratch. But these too they stripped back to the walls and installed "open plan" bedrooms with modern rustic bathrooms straight out of a glossy "home and garden" magazine. They added balconies to extend the rooms to the great out-of-doors.

Each of the 39 rooms is unique in its color palette and its furnishings even if the shape and size are often the same. They are filled with antiques some of which are more elegant and others of which are comfortably used. New old style beds are used, often 4 posters, some of wood, some of wrought iron. Color schemes vary from the earth tones if Tuscany to pastels; from bright reds against white to soft greys and lavenders. Each is different. You might want to make your color preferences known when you make your reservation.

corner of the courtyard

Details of a corner of the back covered patio where the breakfast buffet is served.

bar terrace
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Just down the flanking stone stair cases from the formal dining room is the sunny flag stone terrace of the bar lounge. In warm weather "sails" are erected to provide cooling shade.

Tomatoes and mozzarella

The bar serves a light lunch. We were offered tomatoes with mozzarella.

covered patia and iced drinks

At another part of the arched covered patio an assortment of iced drinks and rosé is served to cool off hot afternoons.

Breakfast Terrace
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The early morning sun shines into this lovely terrace that is shaded with overhead vines.

Bar lounge
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The bar is an inside/outside free standing room of glass and large beams. The rattan furniture is summery and comfortable. In warm wether the panels of glass that make the walls open and let sea breezes waft through. Blows the smokers fumes away as well! This lounge opens out to the terrace (see left).

Some of the hallways seem a bit dull done in greys, lavender and avocado green. But that is purely a personal preference on our part. During hot summer days, the cool colors will probably be found to be soothing. Most of your time is expected to be spent in the many terraces, gardens and cute nooks and crannies that abound.

For those who have spent time at the other "Marie" in Provence, La Bastide de Marie at Ménerbes near Avignon, don't expect this to be the same; it has it's own distinct character. This is Saint Tropez - sun, glamor and sea. This does not have the homey feel that La Bastide does so well. This is a hotel marvelously decorated, set in beautiful South-of-France gardens and places to de-stress, but the "extended family" feeling is not part of its design or intent. For the 2006 season, however, there have been some changes. A new directorice has brought in a new crop of young people whose warmth and relaxed professionalism make you feel welcome and at home.

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bar and terrace
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The bar and its terrace seen from the bottom of the steps that lead up to it from the pool (right).

Back from the rear garden

The private back garden that extends out from the covered patio where breakfast buffet is served as well as the iced afternoon refreshments.

Main salon

The main lounge is sunk down a couple feet from the rest of the main floor. The beams have been exposed.

Pool
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The pool carved out of rock feels more like a lagoon. The water flows into it from mini-rapids that cascade down the rocky hillside above.

Door under stairs.

The interior designer used colors found in Provence and modernized many of them. Here a deep lavender is used as trim and accent and a livid avocado is applied to the walls at the base of the stairs.

entrance
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The entrance gates and pathway to the hotel on the right and restaurant on the left.

Breakfasts are a serve your self overflowing buffet set on the back covered patio. You can enjoy it on the front patio under the shade of the wisteria with the morning sun slanting in or out in the back garden with the scent of the trees and plantings and the music from the water works. Lunches, at least in 2005 when we gathered our experiences, is a light affair with salads of various types as well as a fish and meat dish of the day. Last year, our arrival, quite by chance, coincided with that of the new chef who had to quickly create his own menu, train his kitchen staff and familiarize himself with his new suppliers, so we gave him a break and covered his new menu and style in Spring 2006 (coverage up soon). We can say right now that with his emphasis on quality fresh vegetables, creative entrées and his meat, poultry and fish dishes all either cooked on the rotisserie or the grill in full view of the diners, he has positioned the food perfectly for the holiday season. So good food in convivial surroundings with helpful and friendly staff - you can't go wrong.

So if Saint Tropez is for you but its crowds are not - Villa Marie is the place for you! You need never leave until you head home.

Rooms:


lamp and table

Detail of Rose Room and of antique desk in our suite.

bedroom
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Rose bedroom with wrought iron four poster bed.

bedroom
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One of the smaller bedrooms in the main building with open plan bathroom at the window end with freestanding, claw foot bathtub.

bath tub

Detail of Suite salon

stone sinks
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Salon of another suite by pool with country fireplace.

balcony

Four poster bed with gauzy curtains and bathroom to the right.



Villa Marie
Chemin du Val Rian
83350 Ramatuelle nr. St. Tropez
France.
tel: 33-(0)4.94.97.40.22
fax: 33-(0)4.90.97.37.55
http://www.c-h-m.com
email

Open from the end of April to early October
Rates: from 198 € to 628 €

The Compagnie des Hôtels de Montagne are a small but deluxe group of family created hotels, country inns and a spa. Just click left to visit their site.

How To Get There:
map

Driving:

ViaMichelin Map

By plane

 Airport of Nice or Toulon 60 km - (1 hour)

 By train 

There are stations in both Nice and Toulon


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All rights reserved peter d'aprix ©1985-2010.
No copying, reuse or partial reproduction permitted without written permission by the authors, Peter and Linda D'Aprix.

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