Hotel Oustau de Baumanière*****, Les Baux de Provence, France

For a trip into the heart and soul of southern France.

Peter and Linda D'Aprix 2002

This wonderful hotel located in the heart of Provence gives todays' travelor a real trip back in time to France as it existed numerous decades ago but with all of todays'' comforts and at a deluxe level. At a time when all too many hotels in France are embarassing modern architecture and attractive but soulless interiors, Hotel Oustau de Baumanière takes you back in time to the essence of French country. Here you can really feel your are in the real France, perhaps at a friend's country manor, from the soft colors, antique floor tiles, manor house ambiance and lovely gardens with cherubs and fountains.

Since it was founded just after WWII, Oustau de Baumanière has paved the way for top class hostelry outside of Paris. Founder Raymond Thuilier turned a deserted farm house into one of the top hotels and restaurants in France in just a few years. The cream of French society quickly sought him out. His timing was perfect since post war France had started building high speed roads that spanned the country especially southwards to the sun and beaches of Provence. Parisians on holiday were beginning to demand hotels and restaurants in the country of the same quality they were accustomed to at home. M. Thuilier was ahead of the pack is seeing an opportunity. He was instrumental in founding the high end association of relais and chateaux hotels which is so famous for its dependable quality world-wide.

A terrace of a suite in the Manoir		Foyer of Manoir
Suite of La Manoir		View
© 2002 photos Peter D'Aprix

Today, grandson Jean-André Charial keeps his grandfathers' dream alive and has been expanding it even further. Originally the guests' rooms were above the vaulted dining rooms as indeed they still are today. But in addition, in 1996 M. Charial purchased a lovely old Provencal manor house further down the road, surrounded by lovely country gardens filled with rose bushes, a pond with a fountain, stately plain trees and wonderful crumbling stucco partially covered with vines and washed blue shutters. The rooms and suites are spacious and comfortable with furnishings of the region and bathrooms with old fashioned styled fixtures and fittings with deep, long bathtubs plus spacious showers and plenty of hot water.

Each room is fully air conditioned for those days in the summer that can be hot and sticky. Each hotel building has its own pool. The walls are done in Mediterranean colors and antiques. Breakfast is served in your room, on your balcony or on a round table with crisp white napery anywhere in the gardens under the spreading plain trees that strikes your fancy.

Covered seating area on the edge of the formal pond at La Manoir annex.		Stone bench and chair at La Manoir
The ruins of the old village of Les Baux that preside over the village and valley.		La Manoir annex.

In 1998, M. Charial decided that he really should offer those who lacked a jet set purse a lovely place to stay and eat in this charming valley of Les Baux en Provence. So he bought and refurbished another group of buildings covered with ivy, and opened La Cabro d'Or, a three star hotel with excellent restaurant and, yes, it too has its own pool. It also has its own stables for those who want to explore the surrounding national park on horseback.

The restaurant at La Cabro d'Or just welcomed a new, young chef in 2002 who is bringing an excellent, light cuisine to its tables.

Since its inception, the top quality service and lodging of Hotel Oustau de Baumanière has attracted the rich and famous. For Americans, it was the most popular destination in France after Paris and the valley of the Loire. Helicopters frequently arrive on the landing pad lashing other guests with wind, dust and clinging bits of stuff. The restaurant maintained 3 Michelin stars for decades. The list of famous names would take pages, but hardly surprising the stars of Hollywood feature high as does Royalty with the 1965 stay by Britain's Queen Mother, the 1996 visit by Queen Ingrid of Denmark, and the 1972 stay by Britain's Queen Elizabeth, her husband Prince Philip and son Prince Charles, not to mention the Shah of Iran in 1974, France's president Jacques Chirac, China's Deng Xiaoping, Grace and Albert of Monaco in 1982. And, of course, the D'Aprix's in 2002.

Products at the Oustau store.		Lovely dining room gifts at the Oustau store
Pond and the restaurant and reception of La Cabro d'Or.		Reception of Oustau de Baumanière

The cuisine of the restaurant is again excellent to the palate if somewhat lacking in that character that relieves hunger. The kitchens have had their problems in the past, sometimes attributed to the overwhelming number of American guests. Profiling did occur as we discovered in the late 1980's when we were served a meal prepared in a way the kitchen thought all Americans liked best - over cooked. In catering to foreign demands, perhaps some of the French culinary soul was lost. We have a sense that for some time, the restaurant rested on its well earned laurels and failed to keep up both quality and current influences in culinary preferences. Happily, both problems have been addressed and corrected, we are happy to report. For more on the cuisine of Oustau visit our review of the restaurant - click here.

This is a superb place to stay and enjoy Provence countryside. Whether you want to just collapse and rest, have a massage in your room or hike, eat, explore, ride bicycles or horses - this is the place. Either alone or with the whole family, it all works. The staff are all friendly and courteous. None of that cliché Gallic disdain. In truth, that arrogant disdain has largely disappeared from all of France although it seems to be alive and well in many American establishments struggling to emulate what they think of as upscale European. We could wish such establishments would visit their European counterparts and learn!