Right out the gate, Executive Chef Eric Canino (One Michelin Star) is producing superb cuisine. Sadly, it is not available to the world at large, just the guests staying at this fabulous four star deluxe destination hotel that opened just a week before we arrived to do our story.
We have followed the cuisine of this fine chef Eric Canino for many years now and love his great talent with vegetables that he magically, it seems, turns into wonderful dishes filled with a harmony of tastes, all perfectly balanced. He has a deft touch with fish and his meat dishes never fail. This has been clearly noted by Guide Michelin with his first star.
Despite the fact that the kitchen had only just opened the week before in the brand new hotel, the courses arrived at well spaced intervals, always at just the right temperature and just as ordered. Chef Canino's style has accommodated to the dictates of the goals and philosophy of the "La Réserve", which is that all its departments focus on that which is light, healthy and with subtle good taste be it the hotel, kitchen or spa. As a result, his cuisine is modern yet filled with the tastes of Provence. You leave the table feel well fed yet never stuffed. You are filled with well being.
This very discreet deluxe destination hotel "La Réserve Ramatuelle Hotel" is the latest addition to the growing group of "La Réserve" properties, all maintaining the same quality level and discreet service, yet each with its own distinct personality. The tie that binds them all together allows their guests to count on the same high level of service and attention no matter which one they find themselves staying at. And this applies to the cuisine along with all the other services and facilities.
At the Ramatuelle location, there is a seamless transition between all facets of the establishment, so the dining room flows from the interior with its floor to ceiling glass walls to the outside with its incredible views out over the Mediterranean; so that moving between the two areas almost passes unnoticed. A giant sail shades the dining terrace from the hottest sun and provides a lovely filtered light. At night, it becomes an oasis of candle lit tranquility. That sense of peace is reinforced by the refined artwork of each of chef Canino's dishes as it graces the eye and then, quite quickly, the palette.
The tastes subtly flow from one to another, always gently. It is more like a taste journey than a meal. The only area we found that needs more work is actually that of the pastry chef whose concoctions are marvelous to behold but unlike the earlier part of the meal, do not measure up to their visual promise with the exception of the fresh fruit dishes which were superb.
"La Voile" Restaurant at La Réserve Ramatuelle*****
Chemin de la Quessine
83350 Ramatuelle (nr St. Tropez) France
Tel. +33 (0)4 94 44 94 44
Fax +33 (0)4 94 44 94 45