Control. This is the primary essence of the cuisine of these remarkable twin brothers, Jacques & Laurent Pourcel, the first pair of chefs (and twin brothers) to be awarded, as a twosome, the top ranking of three stars by the Guide Michelin along with only about 17 other chefs. (This was the state in 2001 when we wrote the article.In 2005 they then lost the 3rd star). Other primary characteristics include an addiction to the flavors not just of their birth region, Montpellier, which they celebrate in their cuisine, but of all of the Mediterranean coast from Italy to Spain, from Morocco to Istanbul. Olive oil, rosemary, thyme, freshest southern vegetables, fish and sea food, lamb, honey....an on. But in the most original combinations, and sometimes bizarre combinations.
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Between them, they did apprenticeships with Jean-Claude Fabre, Michel Trama, Michel Bras, Alain Chapel, Marc Meneau and Pierre Gagnaire. An impressive list of some of France’s top chefs.
However, it is their total control that strikes the visitor to their modern restaurant and the twelve rooms and two suites they have created above it. It is not the type of military control of a dictator or prima dona but rather a quiet paring away of all distraction to their focused cuisine. This means not only in the kitchen, on the plate but in the entire physical establishment.
Located in a slightly seedy neighborhood of Montpellier, “Le Jardin des Sens” is nevertheless, just a block away from the central convention center (Le Corum), a perfect location to gain the backbone of any restaurants operating clientele, the business clients. Although more than welcome, the tourist is a small part of their guest list. So instead of creating an old world charm of a country house, they have elected to create a gray, very neutral environmental canvas for their work where everyone is equal and where the food takes precedence.
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The roof top swimming pool and sun deck.
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Iced mango puree in a horn on mango and peach fruit salad with wild wood strawberries.
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The dining room with glass walls with view of the gardens.
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Modern art and modern furniture give the establishment as contemporary air as does the cuisine.
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Despite their three star success, they know they could raise their prices to the sky, but these two brothers exude a thoughtfulness for their fellow citizens of Montpellier. They not only feel they owe a debt to their clientele who supported them in their start, but they also want to retain the eclectic range of guests they have always had from working class family out for an annual celebration, small business men with their wives, a couple on their anniversary, visitors from other countries who want to try top French cuisine as well as the well heeled set. There is a lunch menu for just 260 FRF (approx. $36 US) at today's rates. It starts with a mouth teaser, a starter course, a main course and a full dessert. Prices from their go up to to 480 FRF for the five course and 710 FRF for the seven course.
Due to the unassuming neighborhood, they decided to make the exterior as plain as a cement wall. They succeeded. It is so plain that it is easy to drive right by never suspecting that one of the world’s finest eateries is lingering behind such anti-ostentation. But that is just a hint at the character of these two talented chefs. Despite their world class success and recognition, they are quiet, subdued even shy. All their focus, from the time they were kids when they preferred to make pastry in their mother’s kitchen to playing ball with their friends, is on their cooking. In this, they are at once passionate and intellectual.
Their passion is for the freshest tastes and highest quality local ingredients. Their intellect Is for the creation of unexpected combination of ingredients and tastes. This is a cuisine of tastes routed in their past paired with other ingredients that create a totally new cuisine, a fresh palate of taste partnerships that will excite even the most jaded gourmet. Not everyone will enjoy every dish but if you work with the waiter, everyone can find dishes that will bring great enjoyment whether your preference is for the essence of fresh vegetables that raises the hair on the back of your neck with its perfection or a concoction of pigeon with chocolate in its sauce and its innards deep fried in a bag of filo dough.
The tastes are matched by the intricacy of the preparation of the dishes. Great care and time go into the dicing of vegetables, the julienne, the delicate bringing together of the many separate ingredients that join together in a gastronomic ballet when they all meet on the plate.
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The gray walls give full force to the art as well as to the cuisine.
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Calamari in a sun dried tomato sandwich in local olive oil.
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Various chocolate choices and fresh made vanilla ice cream.
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Provençal folding wooden deck chairs and table by the new pool.
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Jacques loves pastry and the luscious desserts that range from chocolate confections to a wide array of plates doing impossible antics with fruit that defy the imagination.
The dining room is a flying wedge with seamless glass walls giving a sense of indoor/outdoor dining. It owes much of its feel to Michel Bras back in the high country. In fact Laurent worked as a sous chef under Bras before coming of age in this own right in the kitchen. The establishment is decorated with modern art and sculpture which like the cuisine is able to shine forth against the neutral colors of the architecture.
The rooms and suites are just as modern. Not luxurious but very comfortable. They are provided not so much to create a hotel, but as an overnight convenience for diners who don’t want to drive home after a long, indulgent meal with fine wines and that special glow from a wonderful occasion.
The brothers have just opened a superb brasserie “La Compagnie des Comptoirs” just across the street that is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner. Here the food is simpler and more basic but just as delicious. You can order one dish or develop an eight course meal from the Mediterranean basin menu. They have also opened a new restaurant in Paris, “Maison Blanche” (15, Avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris. 01.47.23.55.99) with upscale bistro cuisine that we have yet to test.
11, Avenue Saint-Lazare
34000 Montpellier
tel: 33-(0)4.99.58.38.38.
fax: 33-(0)4.99.58.38.39.
e-mail: jardindessens@mnet.fr
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/
To find them, just follow the signs to the convention center “Le Corum”, then take the direction north on Avenue de Nimes not very far. Avenue St. Lazare quickly comes up on your left. Once on St. Lazare, the restaurant is on the far left corner of the first.
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