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Restaurant "La Chèvre d'Or" *, Eze Village, Alpes-Maritime, France.
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A Cuisine Filled with Modern Renditions of Provençal Tastes
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Peter and Linda D'Aprix 2001-07
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There was great celebration at "Restaurant Chèvre d’Or" in year 2000 when talented chef Jean-Marc Delacourt won his second Michelin star a year earlier than expected. Sadly he left at the end of 2003 taking his two Michelin stars with him. But we have checked and a very fine young chef with impeccable training and background has stepped into his shoes. We have not had a chance to test his cusine, but if anything at all from the fine chefs he has worked under has rubbeb off, his food is excellent and he does bring a Michelin star with him.
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Shrimp Salad with rosemary, Niçoise long and skinny courgettes, sun dried tomatoes, and sauce made with citrus and mangoe.
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Lunch time in the restaurant.
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Lamb with raviolis of vegetables
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Click photos with blue borders to see larger version.
Peter D'Aprix © 2001
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In searching for a new chef for the Restaurant "La Chèvre d'Or", the Manager of the Hotel enticed Chef Philippe Labbe to take the reigns and carry on la Chèvre d’Or’s tradition as one of the finest dining experiences in the region. 40 year old chef Labbe last hung his apron at Château de Bagnols where he honed his culinary skill to earn his first Michelin star. Prior experience includes six years at the Plaza Athenee as Sous Chef and, for a roster of some of the finest restaurants in France, one only needs to glance at his biography: He has worked under such find chefs as Bernard Loiseau, Gerard Boyer, Michel Lorain. Moving south, he worked in the kitchens of Roger Verge at Moulin de Mougins, Christian Willer, chef at the Palme d'Or as well as Francis Chauveau, chef at the Belle Otero. Chef Labbe looks forward to capitalizing on the plethora of fine ingredients available in the region to help continue a legendary tradition 50 years in the making!
The restaurant is located in the 4-star luxury hotel "Chateau de la Chèvre d’Or" in the unique hill top village of Eze. It is perched like an eagle’s nest atop the hotel with a panoramic view from Monte Carlo to St. Tropez, thousands of feet above the sea. As night falls, the sky begins to merge with the sea and the lights of St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Beaulieu and Villefranche begin to twinkle far below. The plate glass windows provide an uninterrupted view that evolves from course to course.
The menu changes with the seasons and I am sure this tradition will continue. Until we get to re-test the cuisine, I will leave our coverage and photos as part of the story.
We were there for the early Spring menu. Linda enjoyed a starter that was a half inch thick rectangular section of finely chopped layered vegetables topped with Oscière caviar (also offered as a starter by the gram), very finely chopped spring green onions sprinkled around the plate and a tiny chick pea pancake perched on a corner. Mine was richer. Described as a “Fondant” of pigeon and foie gras of duck. It turned out to be a sausage of pigeon, foie gras of duck and eggplant wrapped in the skin of the eggplant to make it into a sausage. It was served with a lovely light salad of artichokes with a vinaigrette using truffle oil.
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Dessert of Gaspachio of Red Berries and Oregano Ice-cream.
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The two bakers of the hotel's own boulangerie
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Linda's deceptively simple looking succulent asparagus
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After sun set the lights come on, the tables glow, the golden goat outside is spotlit and the view is stunning.
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Linda, who is an asparagus addict, squeezed in a serving of succulent fresh tips of green asparagus in a light sauce. Her main dish was the thinly sliced breast of duck along a leg of duck cooked separately, both accompanied with an olive puré and “petite grecque” of coarsely chopped vegetables and another socca cake. I had tender lamb from the Alpes of Haute Provence with dried tomatoes and garlic and a ravioli using a lettuce leaf instead of pasta and a shaving of of ricotta cheese.
Dessert for Linda was a dish of perfectly ripe wood strawberries, melon, fresh pineapple and kiwi with a ball of cassis and a ball of coconut sorbets. Mine arrived with a hot mini cake of chocolate with a hot, liquid chocolate sauce center served with pistachio ice-cream. The wine waiter brought a small glass of 1980 Maury Mas Amiel, a red wine that complemented the chocolate to distinction.
As usual we asked the sommelier, Philippe Magne, to recommend regional wines that would go with our meal and as usual we were not disappointed. The 2000 St. André de Figuieu rosé “Grand Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” complemented every dish we ate, adapting itself to each different taste.
The service was gracious and quietly friendly, adapting itself to the different character of the guests. The newly remodeled dining room has a warm ambiance with wood paneling and a yellow theme.
This is cuisine was loaded with the tastes of Provence interpreted in a modern fashion and rendered in a very sophisticated manner. I feel sure that chef Labbe will continue in this tradition. Their bread is baked in their own boulangerie just across the lane from the kitchens.
Reservations are required. The dining room is not big. If you cannot make it, please excercise courtesy and call to cancel as there may well be many people who would like to enjoy the cuisine as well.
Restaurant "La Chèvre d'Or"
06360 Eze-Village
France.
tel: 33-(0)4.92.10.66.66.
fax: 33-(0)4.92.41.06.72.
e-mail:reservation@chevredor.com
http://www.chevredor.com
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For a link to the Relais & Châteaux Group of hotels and restaurants own site, click on the button left.
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To get to Eze Village, take the "Moyenne Corniche". When you arrive at the village, you will see the walled town. Tell the policeman who guards the road up to the village that you are registered guests of the hotel. You only drive about 100 feet up the hill and at the first switchback, you will see the Valet Parking entrance on the left at the corner. Here you will unload your luggage. It will be delivered to your room for you. Just follow the path past the terraced gardens to the hotel reception. At the end of the path you will ascend a flight of stone steps, go through an archway, take a left on the small lane and you will see the reception under the next archway.
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