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Brasserie La Compagnie des Comptoirs
Montpellier, Provence

A Fresh New Approach to Eating in Provence

Peter and Linda D'Aprix 2001


Brasserie La Compagnie des Comptoirs on the western coast of the French Med. is one of our very favorite new middle level eateries in France. It is one of a number of new "Braserie/Bistro" style restaurants created by top chefs who own and run haute cuisine restaurants already but want to offer a new, fresh approach to eating on a more modest "everyday" level.

exterior

Exterior of Brasserie with old central building, new deck with umbrellas, pont and new dining room wing to the left.

Pesto Pasta

Pasta Pesto with zuchinni, carrots and shaved Parnesan Cheese.

Grilled tomatoes with mozarella.

Grilled tomatoes with mozarella.

cocotte des legumes

Cocotte des legumes with the bread baked in the brasserie kitchens.

Click photos with blue borders to see larger version.
Peter D'Aprix © 2001


Opened in the spring of 2001 by the brothers Pourcel, three Michelin star chefs of the restaurant ?Jardin des Sens? across the road, you have access to their expertise, their well trained staff, their wonderful fresh ingredients, their love of Mediterranean tastes presented in simpler form with a range of tastes based on Provence but extending to Africa, the Orient and even Asia. As they say of themselves, we offer "les saveurs des ‘Suds’' tastes of the South".

You can order ust a single generous dish from the à la carte menu or create an eight course meal if you have the room and the time. Vegetables are celebrated here. They claim to be open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. When the weather cooperates, the terrace is sunny and blindingly bright. In less accommodating weather the interior is modern and welcoming. The service is fast and friendly.

dining areas inside

Dining area in old part of remodeled building.

calimari

"Plancha" of Calamari with candied lemon.

management

Frederick Chateau - Director
Chef de Cuisine - Denis Durand
Xavier Méot - Maitre d'Hotel

fruit desert

Fresh fruit desert with various sorbets.

To start, a chilled and very slightly spicy Gaspacho is served with herb ravioli of ricotta. Another starter consists of a broiled cluster of cherry tomatoes on their stems, bursting with flavor with shaved mozzarella and the heart of lettuce with balsamic vinegar sauce. The "Cocotte de Legumes" was filled with snow peas, tomatoes, fava beans, mushrooms, green beans, spinach, asparagus and turnips with a black truffle sauce. The dish of baby artichoke hearts was surrounded with just the flesh of tomatoes with shaved aged Parmesan and a small bed of bitter greens with olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette. The simple Italian dish of pasta pesto was one of the best we have tasted.

The four brochettes of shrimp with mangoe and fine green onions was adorned with sun dried strips of mango. The calamari was sauteed and served on a bed of roasted courgettes and red peppers.

dining area

New dining addition with floor to ceiling to windows that open to make an "indoor-outdoor" dining area.

steak with fresh truffles

Steak topped with slices of fresh truffle, carrots and veggie layered flan.

Gaspachio

Gaspachio with ravioli of herbed ricotta cheese.

The chicken was presented as curls of breast meat served with a filo dough open basket of vegetables. An interesting twist on the beef dish is a steak, not of beef but of “taureau” of fighting bull. The region, like Spain, indulges in bull fights, but not to the death, at least not in the ring. It was a different taste. As different as buffalo is from beef.

Their lemon meringue pie is served with their own lemon sorbet surrounded by finely candied strips of lemon zest. Very refreshing is their plate of fresh fruit and an array of sorbets. But the dessert list is as rich with choices as with taste going on to a fondue of warm chocolate with a brochette of fresh fruit, a tasting plate of chocolate in many different forms, iced nougat and spiced cacao, a frozen cappuccino and warm brownies and on.

Chef Durand and the management are all from the “Jardin des Sens” so the level of professionalism is of the very best. Definitely a culinary destination worth going out of your way to enjoy.

Brasserie La Compagnie des Comptoirs
51 Avenue de Nimes
34000 Montpellier, France
tel: 33-(0)4.99.58.39.29.
fax: 33-(0)4.99.58.39.28.

e-mail: jardindessens@mnet.fr
http://www.relaischateaux.fr/


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No copying, reuse or partial reproduction permitted without written permission by the authors, Peter and Linda D'Aprix.

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