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Restaurant/Hotel Château de la Pioline****
Aix-en-Provence, France
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Light and Tasty Cuisine in A Traditional
Country Manor House
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Peter and Linda D'Aprix 2003-9
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Chateau de la Pioline, just outside Aix-en-Provence, in 2003, offered a really good menu at lunch and so attracted many business lunchs in its area. Today, however, they have cut way back and only serve lunch to guests or, if you have made reservations well in advance, will serve guests who just want to eat. But the menu is very restricted, which is a shame in view of what the cuisine once was. A sign of the times I am afraid. Now the meals are light with a salad, omlet or light fish dish. It is still good but not what it once was..
In the last few years, there has developed a trend in many hotels and restaurants in France of providing "businessmen’s" lunch specials. Prix fixed and sometimes offering a couple of choices for each course, these represent a real deal. The prices are very modest for the quality. In France, it is the practice for business people to eat a decent lunch rather then wolfing down a bugger and fries or a pizza kept warm on the computer terminal. Frankly it is a lot healthier as well as providing a less stressed environment in which to either take a break from the office or with a little physical distance, gain a better perspective of the problems that need solved. It also offers an opportunity for a little interpersonal interaction that is not steeped in just office relationships.
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Turbot with fava beans and roast fennel.
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The entrance view of the Chateau de la Pioline
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Marinated salmon with fennel seeds sitting on a tomato sauce.
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But these are not the old-fashioned two and a half hour lunches of the past era; the kitchens recognize that these are busy people and provide a smart turn around of the meal without appearing to rush their patrons.
All of this benefits us, the non-business traveler, by providing inexpensive and high quality cuisine in very pleasant environments. And Chateau de la Pioline is definitely a most delightful environment in which to enjoy the treats Chef Brissy provides. The 1991 renovation of the 1772 Chateau retained the old world charm and texture of the Chateau from its ancient and iron studded double front doors to the well worn tile floors and the two story ceilings of the public rooms and the superb stair way to the upper floors. U shaped with the open side facing forward, you enter these lovely grounds through huge iron gates and are met with a large, round reflecting pool whose mirror image shines the golden stone walls and plantings back at you in welcome. Furnished traditionally, it retains the feel of a France long gone. Not to worry though, the bathrooms are luxurious and modern.
King Charles V stayed here while he was in Marseille during its siege in 1536 and Catherine de Medici was also a visitor while negotiating the peace in Provence in July 1579.
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Plain tree shaded dining terrace
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Fruit and ice cream dessert.
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Traditional dining room filled with old world charm.
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Dining is either in the formal dining room painted a warm and welcoming soft yellow or in nice weather, out under the plain trees on the flagged stone terrace in the back.
We can only speak to the food since we have not yet had a chance to stay a night. But the food alone makes a visit worth the trip. Set in 8 acres (4 hectares) of lovely parkland with huge old trees with equally old wrought iron gates that screech open when you arrive, it seems locked in time. This is the atmosphere that we seek when we go to France. It is a perfect place to stay a first night on arrival in Provence. With the airport in Marseilles just 15 minutes away or the TGV just 10 minutes away and the center of Aix just about the same depending on traffic, the location would be perfect if it were not for the fact that a sprawling commercial development is sandwiched between the autoroute and the estate. But once that eyesore has been navigated, it is as though you are miles from the nearest human habitation
Château de la Pioline
260 rue Gillaume de Vair
13546 Aix-en-Provence
tel: (33) 04.42.52.27.27
fax: (33) 04.42.52.27.28
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