Hotel La Bonne Etape ****, Château Arnoux,
Haute-Provence, France

Wind your way up from the coast of Provence into the fields of lavender and grains and where the wonderful subtle flavors and aromas of Alpes-de-Haute Provence of wild thyme, rosemary and lavender are carried on the crystal clear breezes that waft off the snow covered peaks of the Alps themselves, and you will never want to leave!

Here, in a small village off the autoroute to Sisteron not far from Digne, La Bonne Etape, a former poste house, is an ideal and charming stop over or destination in itself of top quality, a member of the prestigious Relais et Chateau group. The family Gleize (father, Pierre, and son, Jany, and Mom too) are not only delightful and welcoming hosts but for over 20 years have together created a cuisine inspired by the tastes of the best of local ingredients for the Restaurant La Bonne Etape. It is "classic modern" but Provençal to the core. The rooms and suites are charming, many with their own private garden terraces or balconies. They are decorated with great taste in Provençal fabrics and colors and filled with antiques. Here you will feel part of the great tapestry of Provence.

It has been some years since we were last there and there have been a few changes but we are happy to report, that despite the temporary leave of a absence of son Jany, M. and Mme. Gleize have maintained the establishment exactly as it has always been - the quality of the cuisine, excellent, and this despite the pressures of an adverse economy and they have added a charming bistro, "Au Goût du Jour" for those wanting cuisine filled with the famous Gleize touch but less fancy and easier on the purse.

Antique Wheelbarrow planter		Courtyard and entrance.
The back end of the Etape that looks over the pool.		The entrance at night.

The wood paneled dining room is sedate and old world as are most of the other public and private rooms. The frayed nerves of traveler's from near and far ease as the high beamed ceilings, carpets and tables set far enough apart for discrete conversation to take place without the echoing of many of today's establishments allow the visitor to relax.

This old post house lies on the route from Nice to Grenoble via Gap. The new freeway bypasses the village of Chateau Arnoux, home to La Bonne Etape so the roar of traffic is even further diminished. But I would be a shame to speed past this establishment without taking the time to enjoy the food and the ambiance.