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The Essence of Provence - "La Bastide de Marie****"
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Located at the foot of Ménerbes in the Luberon (Peter Mayle country).
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Peter and Linda D'Aprix © 2005
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You simply don't get more romantic than at La Bastide Marie in Provence. La Bastide Marie is simply one of the most charming and discrete deluxe luxury country inns we have come across. Tucked away in a valley carpeted in vineyards that surround around the old, stone farm house in a gentle embrace, the Bastide is located at the base of the hills supporting Ménerbes, not far from Avignon and a stone's throw from Bonnieux; this area of the Luberon is a nature park in itself. A land of rustic beauty.
This is the perfect place to really let down and unwind. Whilst this perfectly restored 18th century Bastide is certainly a hotel, it projects more the feeling of welcoming you as a personal guest in a private house rather than just another paying tourist. The warmth and simplicity radiates from every aspect of the building, the furnishings, the unique and individual rooms as well as all the serving staff from lowliest to the manager.
The food is excellent, beautifully served and yet simply prepared. The property also has its own winery which we found to be well suited to the food and the ambience of the place. We personally loved the very dry and pale rosé. Who, after all, can come to Provence and not drink the rosé? (Click here for the restaurant). Sipping the rosé or a pastis on the terrace on a sunny day in the shade of the plain trees, looking over the fresh green vineyards to the hills not far away is sublime and is what memories are made of.
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View of the terrace side of the Bastide with the "out building" kitchen on the left and the sun terrace directly ahead. Behind camera position is the winery with vineyards to right and left.
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The library end of the main salon with comfortable reading chairs. Perfect for a book and a pot of tea.
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The courtyard pool.
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Garden two level pool.
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View of the breakfast room from the interior dining terrace.
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Click on the "zoom+" to see larger version.
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© 2005 photos Peter D'Aprix
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The building is a rambling series of rooms, some large and airy, others with vaulted ceiling or open log rafters. Farm families would just add on another lean-to when a son or daughter got married. The owners, Jocelyne and Jean-Louis Sibuet, who breathed new life back into this pile of stones, wanted it to be just like the dream they had of a family country home in Provence. They furnished it with old, mismatched furniture; comfy and familial. But neither is it shabby or run down in any way. The sofas may be old but are re-sprung and covered. The beds guarantee a beautiful night's sleep. The bathrooms are the latest in country chic (no lack of hot water - it just might take a little time to arrive!).
Every bedroom is named after an herb from the nearby hills. Some have their own terraces. Others baronial fireplaces. Many have four poster beds. All this makes it feel that you can easily chat with the guest alongside you over coffee and brandy in the salon or one of its satellites after dinner.
This is also reinforced by the natural and attentive staff who are always there when you need them but are never overbearing or intrusive. They seem genuinely sweet. We loved the young woman who served us our meals and made us feel "part of the family". As we travel with our own small dog, we also enjoyed the Bastide's own pals "Clyde", a giant of a dog with the hear of an angel as well as "Peaches" an adorable smaller female.
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Corner of the courtyard where rooms, the pool and the main entrance all have access.
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One end of the covered dining terrace. Heated in cool weather; open in summer
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Charm abounds in every nook and cranny. This is the hutch in the library filled with old books. Current ones are also available in the many other book shelves.
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The pastoral view out our bedroom window.
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A tribute to the appeal of the Bastide are the many people who return every year to celebrate a birthday or anniversary and are greeted like old friends. There are floor to ceiling book shelves with books of all kinds in many languages, so it is common to observe other guests sitting inside or out reading (or often having a nap with the book on their tummies).
We never seem to have enough time as journalists to sit and read, but afternoon tea is served wherever you happen to want to drink it, inside or out. And it is excellent tea as is the coffee whether you prefer filter or espresso.
There are two pools, actually three but two of those are just two levels of the same pool. The other is tucked behind the outside wall of the Bastide sort of like an "inside the castle" bit of a moat providing a rather nice watery neighbor to the courtyard terrace if you want to take your tea there at one of the brown traditional Provençal outdoor tables with wrought iron chairs.
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The main salon with the massive fireplace to the right.
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The smoking section of the formal dining room.
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The facade from the side terrace where you can have snacks all day, drinks, sun bath, read books and have an aperitif while you mull over lunch or dinner options.
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View from the formal dining room with the main salon to the left and the library to the right. The breakfast room is through the doorway.
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So whether you are just passing through and want a really great place to stay or are considering starting a new annual tradition of time in Provence or have just gotten married and want a place to really remember the event by, this is the place for you. But to top it off, if you love this one, they have more! One in St. Tropez (Villa Marie), one in Lyon and a bunch in Megève including a spa (these are in the Alps of France). See link below.
Rooms:
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Detail of Rose Room and of antique desk in our suite.
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Rose bedroom with wrought iron four poster bed.
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One of the smaller bedrooms in the main building with open plan bathroom at the window end with freestanding, clawfoot bathtub.
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Detail of Suite salon
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Salon of another suite by pool with country fireplace.
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Four poster bed with gauzy curtains and bathroom to the right.
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Bastide Marie
Route de Bonnieux - Quartier de la Verrerie
84560 Ménerbes (near Avignon)
France.
tel: 33-(0)4.90.72.30.20
fax: 33-(0)4.90.72.54.20
e-mail:bastidemarie@c-h-m.com
http://www.c-h-m.com
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The Compagnie des Hôtels de Montagne are a small but deluxe group of family created hotels, country inns and a spa. Just click left to visit their site.
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How To Get There:
Driving:
By plane
Airport of Marseille Provence 60 km - (1 hour)
Airport of Avignon 35 km - (40 minutes)
By train
The Avignon train station is served by the South-East TGV
Direct line Paris-Avignon (3 hours 50 minutes)
By taxi
We are at your disposal to organize your transfert from your arrival place to the hotel.
From Marseille Provence Airport (100 € for two pers. + luggages)*
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