Le Relais Bernard Loiseau ****, Saulieu (Burgundy) France.

In brief:

We wrote about Bernard Loiseau, his food and his dreams and development of the old restaurant "La Côte d'Or" back in the 1990's before his self inflicted death (24 February, 2003). Back then, a few years after he had received his 3rd Michelin star, he immediately became our favorite chef both for his warm and generous personality as well as his culinary talents and the transformation and enlargement of both the restaurant and the hotel. After his funeral (28 February, 2003) we wanted to give his wife Dominique enough time to recover and take over the reins of the Loiseau empire before again testing this fabulous spot in north western Burgundy, just a couple hours from Paris.

We allowed just over a year and again tested this wonderful hotel and restaurant this spring, 2004 and found that despite his death, his legacy of quality has not only been continued but enlarged upon both in the restaurant and the hotel which now boasts spa and fitness faciilities as well as a new play room and nannies for the kids, a new billiard room, library, swimming pool and even a doggie sand box in a private corner of the garden which over the years has been delightully transformed into a lush English garden with meandering pathways, shady trees, colorful plantings and many intimate nooks and crannies.

For the 2006 season, Mme. Loiseau rid herself of M. Loiseau's best friend and the person who managed his dining rooms and helped keep an eye on the network of other bistros, small eateries and other business empire enterprises he has created for as long as Bernard had been in Saulieu. He knew all the ins and outs. He helped keep the "Bernard Loiseau" alive at le Relais. He has been quickly snatched up by that other 3 Michelin star chef Marc Meneau and put in charge of his new golfing/spa/hotel/restaurant establishment, Domaine du Roncemay, close to Pairs. So it remains to be seen how Le Relais Bernard Loiseau manages to keep the feel of the master without one of the two major people who had grown with him.

Many new delux suites and rooms have been added since we were there back in 1996 when the first 5 luxury suites were inaugerated. All the latest additions are fully airconditioned and the origional ones are being fitted as we write. Those on the ground floor have their own private, fenced patios while many above have their own balconies. All are spacious and styled in an "haute rustique" approach with exposed old timbers, antique tiled floors and fireplaces. This is a place that is glorious in beautiful weather and cozy on a chilly winter day. Truely a place for all seasons.

The original establishment was just the corner building in the center of town opposite the Marie. It was first put on the culinary map by world famous chef Alexandre Dumaine. Bernard Loiseau has, slowly over the years, bought buildings on either side so that by the time of his death, he owned a horse shoe shaped building with the garden cozy in the middle. With his first remodeling project, he built a new dining room in the traditional style and an ultramodern new kitchen facility (he had improved the guest facilities, but was still working out of the old kitchen complete with falling ceiling tiles and antiquated stoves and plumbing). He also added several new public rooms with plenty of space to enjoy privacy, have a drink, afternoon tea or read a book by the huge baronial fireplace.

The new acquisitions have all been remodeled in a traditional burgundian style using antique wood paneling, ancient stone and terra cotta tile floors, exposed rough hewn beams and antique fixtures and furnishings to create an elegant rustic simplicity but lacking none of the modern technology required by todays upscale travelers. Since our last visit, a fitness with sauna, steam room, exercise equipment and counter-current pool has been added. A new spa facility has also been introduced alongside the childrens play room so Mom's can keep an eye or an ear on their offspring while have their beauty treatments with top-of-the-line European skincare and relaxation treatments. All this helps to make possible a greater enjoyment of the really superb cuisine that still defines Loiseau’s restaurant under the skillful direction of Patrick Bertron, 20 years his former sous chef.

Our dog’s immediately found his favorite amenity tucked behind some shrubs and shaded by a tree - his own sand box!  Lucky pooches! This burgundian paradise has literally thought of everything for your comfort and pleasure. The Loiseau boutique is right next door and is impossible to resist. We arrived home with marinated tuna, jams and some great linen signature towels. If you are not traveling by plane, or have plenty of luggage allowance, there are wines, designer cooking utensils and many other goodies to eat, drink or utilize.