Summer Lodge Country House Hotel *****, Dorset, UK.

zoom ++

View of the Milestone from Kensington Park.

Dorset is one of Britain’s most fascinating areas, only a couple of hours southwest of London, but worlds away in tranquility, solitude and bucolic charm. This is the real English countryside, the land of Thomas Hardy, the haunts of Tess of the d'Urbervilles, villages with thatched cottages dressed in ivy vines, rivulets of winding lanes, prehistoric ancestry – in short one terrific place to visit. I did just that, parking my Peugeot and unloading my Louis Vuitton at the delightful Summer Lodge in the quaint village of Evershot.

Mind you, this is no roadside motel; set in 4 acres, Summer Lodge is a renowned 5-Star country house hotel named by "Harpers & Queen" magazine as one of the 100 best places in the world to stay. Twenty guest rooms and four elegant suites, each individually designed and styled, luxuriously furnished and equipped. Outside is the rural world of a time long gone by; inside is unparalleled comfort and service with all the up-to-the-minute whistles and bells of contemporary life.

My room (more like a home than a “room”) was mammoth in size, cabbage roses on fabric covering the walls, huge windows overlooking the gardens and art and antiques everywhere. A sofa and two great chairs, a working fireplace with large flat screen TV over, a huge four poster bed with another flat screen TV cleverly hidden under the canopy. There was a walk-in closet with safe, pants press, and DVD player. An enormous marble bathroom with shower big enough for at least two. And another room with dressing table for milady (wherever you are—this trip, wife Jackie stayed in Sherman Oaks with our new dog, Skye) and sparkling bathtub with still another flat screen TV over. There is high-speed Wi-Fi connection, air conditioning, Belgian linens on the bed, fluffy bathrobes, slippers, toiletries by Penhaligon, scented candles (which housekeeping lights during evening turndown), fresh fruit and shortbread made in the Summer Lodge kitchen –- the shortbread, not the fruit. But then you knew that. A feast for all the senses! And, to elaborate on the kitchen, this is a Relais & Chateaux house with gourmet dining worthy of the brand. More about that later, so sharpen your appetite.

The General Manager, Charles Lotter, was away on business when I arrived, so his congenial deputy, Severino, showed me around the property. (I did meet Charles later on. A charming, soft-spoken man who speaks passionately about his birthplace, South Africa, and with equal fervor about the appeal of Dorset and his pride in Summer Lodge. And with good reason). I saw three rooms, all different in style and size – but all the same in comfort and beauty. And all, like my accommodations, looking as though they had never been occupied. A little applause for the outstanding housekeeping staff. I must admit it was difficult to tear myself away from the spa with its heated swimming pool surrounded by glass walls and ceiling. If I could manage, I would be back here for a swim before days end. If Jackie were here she would be in one of the private rooms enjoying one of the long list of soothing treatments.

Back in the main house (there are 3 buildings of accommodations plus cottages), Severino showed me the warm, inviting bar – I would definitely be back here at days end! Adjacent is the restaurant built on 3 levels and just outside, a terrace where I met a charming family enjoying a light lunch and drinks while basking in the sunshine. They marveled at the fact that just three weeks ago the whole area was engulfed in snow! The final room I was taken to – the drawing room – was actually designed by Thomas Hardy who was a hyphenate – writer/architect. A truly magnificent space. You did good work, Thomas. There is also a beautiful room which can be used for private dining or as a conference room for a dozen or so lucky guests.

After a wander round Evershot village, that promised swim, a good strong shower, I dressed and kept my word about visiting the bar. And then – ta da!!!! Dinner time. My table awaits. My mouth waters. Now, just imagine you were with me, sharing:
An amusee bouche of chicken liver parfait (as good as any foie gras I’ve had). A starter of pan seared Lyme Bay scallops (perfectly prepared). An off-the-menu salad of tomatoes, onions and a variety of greens -- many grown in the hotel garden -- with a light tangy vinaigrette dressing. (Totally delicious). We pause now as Charles Lotter makes the rounds, chatting with each guest. He and I discuss our dogs. How nice to have a dog to discuss! By the way, every single member of the large staff addressed me by name each time we passed. Well done, Charles. So, on to my main course – line caught Portland Sea Bass filet with tagliatelli turned black as night with squid’s ink. Truly superb.

As a matter of fact, I can unequivocally say that every dish I had for dinner – and the smoked salmon, egg-white omelet with mushrooms, tomato and smoked haddock for breakfast – were the very best in quality, preparation and taste I have ever experienced. Executive Chef, Steven Titman has a perfect touch (more on him below.) And that is precisely what I told Ellen Singleton, the 25-year veteran of Summer Lodge and manager of the restaurant.

For samples of their current menus (service not included), click here.

Executive Chef Steven Titman was formerly at the highly acclaimed "White Barn Inn" in Kennebunkport, Maine, one of the USA’s top ten hotel restaurants, and from the moment he established himself in Dorset, his cuisine has been winning new fans from far and wide, myself amongst them. Their cellar master was runner-up in the Best Sommelier of the World awards 2007. This is an establishment high amoungst the world's best.

Steven and his team serve traditional English dishes rendered with a twist of modern European interpretation. In 2005, "Tatler" nominated the restaurant for "Best Out-of-Town Restaurant" in the country. Offering the finest meats and the most delicately cooked fish dishes with many of the ingredients gleamed from the wealth of fine produce found in the locality and from their own kitchen garden. The hotel even sponsors "FUNGI FORAGING" outings. The rolling hills of Dorset provide some of the best mushroom hunting grounds in England, and the hotel has set up a special day's foraging led by celebrated wild mushroom hunter John Wright for the enjoyment of guests getting out in the fresh air and beautiful hills of Dorset, then getting to enjoy the results that evening for dinner.

Steven’s Signature dish:
Executive Chef Steven Titman’s special local culinary creation: Roast loin of Dorset lamb with braised shoulder ‘Shepherd’s pie’, Savoy cabbage and rosemary "jus".

Dorset Cream Tea:
You simply can’t visit the West Country without enjoying a cream tea, and this is Dorset’s finest: home-made scones, strawberry jam and Dorset clotted cream.

Traditional Afternoon Tea:
Served every day, Summer Lodge's traditional afternoon tea offers a selection of finger sandwiches, freshly made pastries, and scones with strawberry jam and Dorset clotted cream.

Members of the restaurant team are always discreetly on hand to advise, recommend, and assist, displaying the unobtrusive professionalism I found of all aspects of Summer Lodge.
Happily sated, I returned to my room to discover the housekeeper had turned down, refreshed and left a scented candle burning in the bathroom and a gift of a tiny book on quilting along with a clip-on book light.  Sweet pleasures. Treat yourself to all – visit London and The Milestone Hotel.

For how to find the hotel, its history and more, visit their web site linked below.

Summer Lodge Country House Hotel, Restaurant & Spa****
Evershot, Dorset DT2 0JR, UK
Relais & Chateaux Member since 1992
Tel: +44 (0) 19 3548 2000
Fax: +44 (0) 19 3548 2040
Website: www.summerlodgehotel.co.uk/
E-mail: infosl@rchmail.com
Reservations: summer@relaischateaux.com
OPEN ALL YEAR.