|
For those of you wondering what has been happening to the cuisine and restaurant created by world renown, 3 Michelin star chef Bernard Loiseau since he took his own life, do not worry; his restaurant is thriving and doing well. His second in command for 20 years, Patrick Bertron, has not only carried on the now classic Loiseau recipes, but with the spirit of Loiseau in mind, has created new and exciting directions. No one need be concerned with either the quality or the creativity of the food at Relais Bernard Loiseau.
Just a couple of hours drive south from Paris in the northern reaches of Bourgogne, this restaurant is within easy reach for lunch or dinner. Better yet, stay the night in the luxurious yet country styled rooms and be relaxed about your meal. The service is a good as it ever was. M. Loiseau's wife controls everything including what is on the menu. One begins to realize that it was not just the passion and talent of M. Loiseau that made Relais Bernard Loiseau such a success but the ablilities of his lovely and charming wife as well.
There are not enough superlatives to describe Patrick Bertron’s food. He is of course carrying on Loiseau’s cuisine but adding his own creative stamp on superbly crafted and innovative dishes. I started with a dish of perfect spring vegetables in a nettle sauce that was simply wonderful. A melon soup with a touch of tarragon was a lovely combination and a perfect choice for a warm evening. This was followed by rouget stuffed with courgette flowers, crushed olives and yellow squash napped with a signature parsley sauce.
A lovely thick breast of duck was perfectly done accompanied by glazed baby carrots. Melt in your mouth ravioli with strips of celery and baby artichokes followed. An impeccably prepared pigeon was my favorite with pureed asparagus and baked onions. The only disappointment for me as a lover of rhubarb was my dessert. The rhubarb was minimal in an otherwise perfectly nice cake. Peter’s trio of chocolate delights was divine. Both of these desserts proceeded by a lycee sorbet with pineapple sauce, which was unusual and delicious. After a walk around the garden and a visit by our dog to his own garden spot we happily went off to our charming room and fell into bed.
|
